Saturday 9th March, 2019 10am at the Bonsai South Nursery (114-116 The Boulevarde, Caringbah NSW 2229)
Call to reserve your space – call (02) 9531 4589
Hurry as space is limited! To reserve your spot call (02) 9531 4589 .
This is going to be a discussion that will have lots of disagreement. But have your say and do explain WHEN you do it and WHY you do it at that time. We are talking about in our mid temperate climate. Queensland could be slightly different. Yes do state your location.
To start of here are a few species as to when and why you do it at that time of the season.
1. Cedars - be it atlantic or deodara
2. Piceas - any picea
3. Black pines - any varieties of black pines
4. Red pines - any varieties of red pines
5. Radiata pine
6. Scott pines - any varieties
7. Mugo pines - any varieties
8. Junipers - any varieties.
9. Maples - any varieties
10. Elms - any varieties
I do all of them through mid winter, err up here if you call it winter, as they are asleep as if under anaesthetic.
That way they have plenty of time to repair the roots for when they are waking up in spring when the days become longer.
Years ago I used to do the figs in Sydney in the middle of winter mainly through ignorance in the early days, but I never lost one as I kept them moist only.
After care is the most important thing to learn as is correct watering.
With regards to the Maples and depending on variety generally speaking repotting i do while the trees are dormant and with collected material repot every year for the first 3 tears cutting the roots every then when the tree tells you please repot me
My thoughts for what it is worth
I have had success repotting JBP and junipers in late Winter, and have been doing it because I had read/heard that this is the time when they're supposedly still able to repair roots but have already begun shifting their resources up into the trunk and foliage.
I do have some slightly more informed opinions regarding some species that aren't on the list (i.e. Ficus, Melaleuca and Leptospermum), so I'll hold of on those for now.
I look forward to reading your opinions, Leong. Particularly regarding Cedrus deodara and Pinus radiata - have one of each needing new shoes.
Ficus: Summer (December - February) - key criteria being heat and humidity. I find this is when Ficus are growing most aggressively, and therefore when they are most resilient and able to repair themselves.
Melaleuca and Leptospermum: Summer (December - February) - also, as above, heat and humidity seem to help, but extreme heat (>35C) is detrimental. For whatever reason, these two natives seem to recover best when temperatures are warm/hot. I think some people have found Melaleuca to be a bit more tolerant of cooler temperatures, but Leptos appear not to (scoparium might be an exception?). I've found if re-potting is conducted during Summer, they rapidly re-colonise their pots - much faster than a conifer would. However, the key is definitely to sit them in a tray of water afterwards (a tip from a member from another forum). I suspect if too much foliage is removed, then you would risk drowning your tree, but since you're not supposed to defoliate Melaleuca or Leptospermum, there's not usually a massive danger of that happening. As an addendum, NEVER let either Melaleuca or Leptospermum dry out. Their fine roots are really susceptible, and I've found it's a sure way to have them roll. Had a Melaleuca get knocked off the bench during gale force winds one night, and despite it having re-colonised the entire pot and exhibited rampant growth after repotting, it died from that brief period of desiccation.
Hi All ,
I will add to Owens information about Leptospermum. I have been growing several variety's and I repot at the start of November just as it is starting to warm up. I don't use a water tray and have not had any losses .I am two hours south of Sydney on the coast so maybe this has a bearing on the situation . Regards John .