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Juniper Workshop - Saturday March 9th (18 Feb 2019)

Join our exclusive Juniper workshop feature Leong Kwong.

Saturday 9th March, 2019 10am at the Bonsai South Nursery (114-116 The Boulevarde, Caringbah NSW 2229)
Call to reserve your space – call (02) 9531 4589

Hurry as space is limited! To reserve your spot call (02) 9531 4589 .

www.bonsaisouth.com.au/bonsai-workshop-juniper/

Chinese elm help

11 months 3 weeks ago - 11 months 3 weeks ago #60544 by Shell
Hi guys, got this Chinese elm the other day to practice on as it was really cheap

Trying to decide which is a better front. The original front has what I think good branch placement but not so great taper.

On the side seems to be more interesting trunk wise but the branches are in an awkward spot.

Beginner here so i don’t really know what looking at but that was my assumptions. What do you guys think?

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11 months 3 weeks ago #60545 by JC
Hi Shell

Welcome to bonsai south.

Firstly I know you asked about the tree, but I noticed that the wiring is a little untidy and it needs to be applied properly to get the best effect and to protect the branches from snapping, so three things are most important choosing the correct gauge, a good anchor point and correct angle it is put on. The best angle to apply the wire is at a 45-degree angle for the most holding power.

So these two videos are good to get that information from.
Part 1 www.kaizenbonsai.com/bonsai_videos?videoid=6
Part 2 www.kaizenbonsai.com/bonsai_videos?videoid=7

Now to help out on your origional question.
For me, I think that the first picture presents the best view as in the base has a good root spread (Nebari) and the branches are spaced OK and it looks as though there is a branch you have used as a rear branch.

Now the apex, I think that you will have to remove the thick branch altogether that you look as though you were going to use as the apex, there is another either coming from that lower down or from the other side of the V cut on the tip of the trunk that could be moved over to the centre of the trunk.

While I'm at it I noticed that if you use the first picture as your front, then the second picture shows that the tree is leaning away from the viewer.

In bonsai, the tree should be leaning forward slightly to the viewer as a welcoming gesture.

Hope this all helps you on your journey with the tree as the previous owner has started it with a good direction for the future, keep us posted.

Some of the other members may see something different.

JC
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11 months 3 weeks ago #60546 by JC
Hi Shell

I came across this yesterday again and shared it with our club, it is information on developing leaf pads for the Chinese elms.



JC
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11 months 3 weeks ago #60548 by Shell
Hi JC,

Thank you so much for your advise on the tree, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain it all in details. Great video also, I learned heaps just watching it. I will go and fix it up when I get home later tonight and report back. It needs a repot also as the soil seems to be washed away.

1. In regards to the top thick branch should I cut it off but leave some incase of die back. Or cut it flush and put some cut paste?

2. About repotting I’m thinking to raise it up a bit so the soil will be where it is now or do I go even lower to show the nebari even more. What do you think?

3. Should I also chop off the little branches that’s between the 1st and third branch? And also the little branch coming off on the second branch?

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11 months 3 weeks ago - 11 months 3 weeks ago #60549 by Shell
Something like this?
The red being the right side branch of the v cut wired to the be the new apex

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11 months 3 weeks ago #60550 by JC
Hi Shell

Probably the first question I should ask is where do you reside?

Do you know or have you heard about aftercare?

JC

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11 months 3 weeks ago #60551 by Shell
I live in Sydney and doing workshops with Leong at the moment so I know a little bit. Hopefully just enough to keep it alive I think. Could you give me some main things to look out for just incase I missed them?

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11 months 3 weeks ago #60553 by JC
Hi Shell

The reason I asked is that I am up on the mid-north coast of NSW and we have slightly higher temps to Sydney and the timing is different for a number of species.

A good place to learn all about it at Bonsai South. next time you are there, have a look at how Leong presents them on the benches in pots for the height.

You mentioned the height yes it needs to come up higher to expose the nebari (Root Structure) at potting time, have the roots level or slightly higher than the top of the pot and have the soil about 10mm lower around the outer edge of the pot to act as a dam wall to collect the water and cover with stones.

You could cut the thick top branch in half and seal with cut paste if it is the road if it isn't then left till sap flow starts (Spring) and cut it lower and seal.

The vert that you did is on the money and you are setting the tree up for the future design, should look stunning with rounded pads and crown.

There is detailed info here on aftercare from Graham Potter.
www.kaizenbonsai.com/bonsai-tree-care-in...e_of_re-potted_bonsa

JC

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11 months 3 weeks ago #60554 by JC
Hi Shell

Just remembered this part. (Could you give me some main things to look out for just in case I missed them?)

I have heard mentioned on the net Chinese Elm make a good indoor bonsai it is totally incorrect as they slowly get sick and die.

The three main things you need to remember is the SUN to help keep it compact, FRESH AIR & WATER for a healthy bonsai.

Fertilize in the growing season after the spring flush, Leong will have something there.

JC

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11 months 3 weeks ago - 11 months 2 weeks ago #60555 by Shell
Hi JC,

Thanks again for your time mate, I will start playing around with it when I get home. Yep I have got some fertiliser ready from Leong the other day. I will definitely keep my trees outdoor also.

Here is another Elm I got that was worked on at the workshop with Leong few weeks ago.

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